Organic Wines Explored & FAQ's

At The Sussex Wine Company we have seen a significant increase in the popularity of organic wine and spirits over the last few months. Organic food and wines are becoming an everyday occurrence along with recycling, organic fruit and vegetable box schemes, farmers markets and GI diets. But what is organic wine? Is it healthier for us? Better for the environment? Most importantly does it taste good?! Let’s address some of those questions shall we…

So what do we mean by organic wine? Organic grapes are cultivated without recourse to synthetic fungicides, herbicides and fertilizers. Organic farming (viticulture) is a return to old fashioned methods where nurturing the soil, the vine, the whole ecosystem of the vineyard, is of paramount importance. It is not just about avoiding the use of chemicals. Organic wine producers recognise that it is crucial the base product is as wholesome as it can be and that you cannot mess about with the raw product. One such estate is Albert I Noya of Penedes, Spain who are making real headway in the field of organic wine and organic wine production methods with their Chardonnay Xarel Lo, Cava Can Vendrell, Syrah and Reserva Marti. They say "Our concept of organic production is all-encompassing: not just in the vineyards, but also in the cellar and the residues we generate. Everything we do is affected by the organic ethos."

Is organic wine production better for the environment then? Yes. As the vineyards are not using chemical fertilisers and pesticides there is no damage to the environment or the soils natural structure and over time it will actually improve the soils ability to yield its produce. Over time the ecosystem of an organic vineyard becomes stronger and healthier, producing vines with guts and grapes with gusto!

NB At The Sussex Wine Company we have a deep seated passion for quality driven products from sympathetic producers. 'Boutique' wineries tend to lean less towards synthetics in their wine production anyway, even though they may not have an organic stamp. Worldwide, growers are limiting their use of synthetic fungicides, herbicides and fertilizers and using natural methods to combat pests. It is the techniques used to create mass market cheap ‘gloopy’ wines from multiple retailers that involve mass chemical use that we question.

Are organic wines going to be healthier? Yes and no. Yes due to the minimised use of Sulphur or E220 (used as a preservative in wine) that can commonly produce particularly nasty hangovers, especially in those with a sensitivity to it. Organic certification standards only allow two thirds of the normal amount of Sulphur permitted, although the organic and quality producers will use even less than this. However, organic wine is not good for you if you drink too much because it still contains alcohol!

I’ve heard of organic wine and spirits but what is Biodynamic Wine? Biodynamic wine production was actually inspired by the Austrian philosopher/scientist, Rudolf Steiner. Steiner’s mission in life was to bridge the gap between the material and spiritual worlds through the philosophy. Laterly in Steiner’s life he turned to agriculture. His eight lectures, entitled Spiritual Foundations for the Renewal of Agriculture, were delivered just a year before his death, but they remain the foundation of biodynamic farming. Modern biodynamic techniques have been built on Steiner’s theories, however we must emphasize that there are producers who use biodynamics methods that distance themselves from Steiner’s beliefs and teachings.

Vineyards that use biodynamic agriculture understand the ecological and the spiritual in nature. One such vineyard is Vinedos Organicos Emiliana in Chile who produce Coyam (recently voted amongst the top 50 value for money red wines in the world). An important aspect of biodynamics is the holistic view that the farm is a living, self-sustaining system. Biodynamic vineyards are firmly connected to the lunar and cosmic rhythms and the soil is considered an organism in its own right. A series of special preparations enhance the life of the soil and are applied at times in keeping with the rhythms of nature. Disease in the vines is seen as a symptom of a deeper problem within the vineyards system or ‘organism’. In order to correct the problem in the vines, you have to tackle the issues in the whole system. Once that has been addressed the disease will right itself.

Some ordinary vineyards claim to have tried it biodynamic methods and found immediate improvements in the health of their vineyards. Winemakers noted stronger, clearer and more vibrant tastes, as well as wines that remain drinkable longer. It could be said that these improvements would have happened by simply using organic farming methods, without the spirituality involved in biodynamics. However, whether it works or not the interest and uptake of biodynamic methods is growing worldwide amongst many producers.

What about the organic certification and labelling of wine? What does it mean to the consumer? There are the cynical amonst us who may believe that an Organic stamp is just another way of marketing or increasing the price of the wine. There are still a lot of average over priced organic wines out there. On the other hand there are producers who do not have the time or inclination to go through the process of certification yet are producing outstanding wines using organic methods. At The Sussex Wine Company we think that the organic and non organic debate really comes down to trusting your own tastes and your local wine merchant! Go for smaller producers, do not be afraid to ask questions and recognise and respect that to get quality products, passion and time is paramount to a bottle of wine. Mass production and forcing prices down in order that we only pay £2 a bottle will do more to damage our choices of quality wine and the industry as a whole by putting the smaller quality producers out of business.

Thus the issue of labelling arises. We label our food why not our wine? It is in our interest as consumers to have information about additives or residues, as well as methods used to fine the wine, on the bottle label. It may also help to dispel the myth of wine labelled ‘vegetarian’ or ‘vegan’. Vegetarian and vegan wines have not necessarily been produced organically. It is down to the final fining process. Wine goes through a final fining process before bottling that takes out colloids suspended in the wine. Colloids are microscopic molecules left over from the fermentation process which in a few cases can cause spoilage but more significantly they can make a wine less than perfectly clear. Many multiple retailers and consumers like their wine to be clear (their apples to be shiny and their carrots free of dirt!). Therefore the wine has to be fined using extract of fish bladder, blood (although rarely), or egg whites for example which are not suitable for vegans or vegetarians. If clay or a silica is used the wine can then be called vegetarian. In a nutshell the definitions of these wines are:

Vegetarian Wines: wine made without the use of animal products usually in the fining process such as Gelatine, Isinglass (usually from the swim bladder of the sturgeon), Chitosan (derived from the shells of shellfish and crustaceans). However they do allow the use of products such as Albumen (made from egg whites), Casein (sodium or potassium caseinate which is the primary protein in milk). Bulls blood is now rarely used in some Mediterranean countries but is not allowed in the U.S. or France.

Vegan Wine: wines produced using no animal derived products at all including dairy. Bentonite, a natural inert clay powder, can be used to clarify the wine for the process of fining vegan wine. There are even some vintners who let the sediments settle naturally with a great deal of patience. Wines suitable for vegans will be suitable for vegetarians.

Winemakers are not required to put which clarifier is used on their label, since it is removed from the final product. However, many wine makers will promote the vegan and vegetarian aspects of their wine and if the wine is unfiltered, because some wine enthusiasts prefer unfiltered wine. Plus, you can always use a decanter.

This is merely a summary of a very fascinating and far reaching subject. We must remember that growing beautiful organic grapes does not mean their juice will be turned into fabulous wine. Due to the very nature of the production methods involved in organic viticulture, interesting, thrilling wines are not guaranteed. However recent efforts in organic wine production have given us a delectable feast of delicious wines from around the world that are well priced to boot. There are no available products under this category.