Wine Maker Focus - Carlos Cerutti, Azienda Agricola Corteforte
Carlos Maria Cerutti, "an enthusiastic grape cultivator" completely renovated the 15th century estate of Corteforte, situated in the Fumane Valley, in Italy's Veneto region. The vineyards surrounding the Corteforte estate are renowned to be the finest in the region.
We were intrigued to know more about the man behind this wonderful estate and in his own charismatic words gave us a super and comprehensive insight into his world of quality wine making.
SWC: "The over all quantity of wine that you make is small, will you be producing more at any point or are you happy with current production levels?"
CC: "The wines produced come exclusively from my own property which covers nearly 3 hectares. I do not have any intentions to purchase other land or to purchase grapes from a third party, due to the fact that I am very pleased with the quality of my wines and prefer to maintain this quality.
I believe that a larger production would need to be accompanied by a continual development in machinery and facilities and above all would constitute a an excessive research of new markets. In the end the results would be like an eye of a storm instead of an activity which I find quite pleasurable."
SWC: "The Veneto has some 'super-star' wine makers like Quintarelli and Dal'Forno, do you follow their wines and use them as a bench-mark for what you try to achieve with your own wines?"
CC: "Quintarelli and Dal’Forno are certainly models worth imitating and also they produce quantities which are quite small. This merely emphasizes my point that a smaller production allows for more overall care and attention allowing for better results and higher satisfaction."
SWC: "Other than your own wines, are there any specific producers or wine regions anywhere else in the world that you admire?"
CC: "I believe that it is not necessary to speak about well known wines be they Italian or foreign, specifically French wines. In my opinion, for what concerns white wines there remains today an under appreciation of white wines from the area of the Friuli and above all those produced in Slovenia and near its border.
I believe as well that there could be a notable development in the over all production of quality of rosé wines and their commercialisation which up until now has always been taken for granted."
SWC: Do you feel that Robert Parker specifically as well as the Gambero Rosso, affect what you do and in general wine makers in Italy?"
CC: I believe that Robert Parker has a great deal of influence on the sales of wines in the US Market due to the fact that he can take advantage of his notoriety and his economic autonomy ( also well subsidized ) and use this to his benefit vis- a- vis the producers and the end consumer, who eventually idolize him.
One point that I would make is that there is an enormous consumption of wine across the US, and I maintain that it is more Parker than anyone else that has determined measures for the valorisation of the quality.
The situation in Italy is quite different where the controversial alliance between the guides and the more predominately known (or favoured) estates does not help the impartiality; it need not be pointed out that the continual proliferation of the guides is definitely linked consequently to economic interests which are unquestionably propagated by the volume in sales."
SWC: "Do you have any plans to produce white wines?"
CC: "The zone of Valpolicella Classico is exclusively an area dedicated to red wine production. I produce small quantities, approximately 1,000 (37.5ml) bottles of a white passito which is vinified in the months of February – March following the previous year’s harvest and eventual fermentation in wood. The truth is that these white varietals (garganega, trebbiano, moscato and malvasia) are all to be found planted together in a row in my vineyard – I suspect they were originally planted for table consumption.
Referring back to a previous paragraph, I have begun to produce a rosé from three different indigenous varieties found here in Valpolicella (Corvina. Rondinella and Molinara). Skin contact is avoided during vinification using purely the free fun. The resulting wine has body, a light, pleasant aroma and can easily substitute a white wine when seeking an accompaniment for fish as well as a plate of pasta, with a slightly more delicate sauce."
SWC: "Can you sum up your wines in 3 words?"
CC: "Originality and territory in a traditional sense.
It serves to point out that Amarone is indeed a very particular wine due to the fact that it is obtained from dried grapes, is a red wine, dry and therefore, quite unique. This, coupled with a particularly special territory allowing for a climate adapted for the natural drying of the grapes without rot.
The merit of tradition, in that the vinification process is still that which was observed year’s ago ; keep in mind that the drying of the Valpolicella grapes goes not back only to medieval times, possibly even before.
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