About Umbria and Umbrian Wine

The Italian word ‘ombra’ means shadow - Umbria lies in the shadow of its illustrious neighbour Tuscany. The only land locked region of Italy, Umbria is mostly mountainous and hilly, casting long dark shadows over river valleys already darkened by lush chestnut groves and elm forests. There is an epithet given to Umbria, il cuor verde d’Italia – The Green Heart of Italy. Whilst it can be aptly applied to this region, the phrase, taken from a poem by Giosuè Carducci, refers not to Umbria but a place within it – the source of the Clitunno river.

The region was settled by the Umbri tribe in the 6th century BC; later, their chief enemies the Etruscans, captured 300 Umbrian towns. In spite of this, the Umbrian population was not eradicated and the Roman victory at Sentinum in 295 BC started a period of integration under the Roman rulers. The borders of Umbria were fixed in 1927 with the creation of the province of Terni, which forms the smaller of the two provinces making up Umbria, the other being Perugia.

Umbria has a medieval character, aided by the architecture of its towns and villages, which often follow the contours of the high ground, not to mention the many castles, fortresses and watchtowers. The proliferation of roadside shrines, monasteries and convents are testament to Umbria’s deep religious belief - it is a land of Saints.

Like so much of Italy, Umbria is rich in art. Traces of Etruscan civilization can be seen in several cities, including Orvieto and Perugia, while impressive Roman remains can be found in the cities of Spello, Spoleto and Assisi. Romanesque architecture thrived in this region and its cathedrals provide beautiful illustrations of this. The Gothic style reached the highest levels here and examples can be seen in almost every city, while the magnificent monuments in Perugia, Gubbio and Todi are reminders of the Renaissance.

The region’s spirituality can be witnessed in the integrity of its traditions. In Umbria, the picking of olives is spoken of as if it were a mystical experience, so the almost religious devotion to olive oil is hardly surprising. Its gastronomy is based on indigenous products; olive oil, lentils, sheep’s cheese, pork meat, wild boar and its famous truffles, so plentiful they are put into everything. Used fresh in season, truffles are preserved, frozen, and vacuum-packed - truffles are eaten all year round. And of course, within this gastronomic heaven is wine.

In Umbria Orvieto is one of Italy’s best-selling DOC wines, it has a strong following outside Italy. Over recent years, some producers, through lower grape yields, more meticulous selection and by allowing the grape skins to remain in contact with the juice for a while before fermentation, have achieved more character in the wine. Recently Orvieto’s abboccato and amabile versions have made a comeback as dessert wines.

Procanico (a local species of Trebbiano) and Malvasia prevail in Orvieto, but growers have been working with outside varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon and the Pinots, with considerable success. Other outside varieties have been planted in Umbria including Merlot and Barbera, which have been prominent for more than a century.

Umbria’s most prestigious wine is the red Torgiano Rosso Riserva, which has a special status as DOCG. This modern classic, based on Sangiovese, under the name Rubesco has been known to age magnificently for two decades or more.

Around the hill town of Montefalco, grows an ancient variety – Sagrantino. It makes both dry and sweet wines of unmistakable grandeur, and has been granted a special DOCG.

Umbria and Lamborghini – what a combination. Explore The Sussex Wine Company’s selection of superb red wines.

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